9/16/21 Poured rain last night but my morning it had stopped and was cold and foggy. Left the shelter and climbed about 1,400 feet to the summit of White Cap Mountain (3,650 ft). Sun was coming out and views to Katahdin were seen. Remainder of the days weather was excellent. Climbed several small peaks after descending White Cap which had no views. These included Hay Mountain, West Peak and Gulf Hagas Mountain. Saw some grouse. Got to Carl Newhall Lean-to by 12:30 PM. It had only been 7.2 miles. Had lunch and Mark arrived. Needed to get more miles in because of the wedding. Mark declined as he was tired. Explained I had a deadline and had to keep going. Exchanged phone # and I hiked rather easy trail down hill or flat for 8 miles. Saw Platinum heading north slack packing from SHAWs. She started the same day I did. Forded the wide but shallow West Branch Pleasant River. Getting dark so I stealth camped at site on Guthook noted on comments at nice spot.
9/15/21 Started with cloudy skies and climbed 750 feet to Little Boardman Mountain (1,980 ft) with no views. Dropped down to a pond and Brook and it started pouring rain. Than it stopped but again started pouring at the Logan Brook Lean-to. 3 woman were there 2 of whom we had met before and they were hiking the 100 mile wilderness. 2 other section hikers and 2 people who work for Backpacker Magazine with their 2 dogs were day hiking and doing some videos for the magazine. I would have hiked further but it was pouring rain and 2 NOBO’s stopped by and said it was quite windy on Whitecap Mountain. 7 of us crammed into the shelter. Rain stopped overnight.
9/13/21 Another beautiful day and hike. No mountains or ridges to climb. Initially trail had the usual rocks and tree roots at its base but than was clear hiking on firm ground. No mud. Walked by Nahmakanta stream than trail turned inland eventually reaching Antlers campsite on Jo-Mary Lake. Many NOBO’s initially seen including Two-Fer who I met way back on my second day on the trail with my brother Allen and Piper. She looked great and we spent some time discussing our adventures.
9/8/21 Awoke at 2:30 AM to leave hotel and Barb drive us the long distance to Millinocket to meet our shuttle driver , Jaime, the owner of the Appalachian Trail Lodge. We met Mark who had wanted to share our campsite at Katahdin Springs in order to start his south bound section of the AT by climbing Mount Katahdin. Shuttle drove us to the entrance of the park where I had to show my reservation of the camping permit to stay at a lean-to at Katahdin Springs in order to enter. Weather at the base was cool and partly cloudy. Left my stuff I would need to camp that night in a separate lean to so I didn’t need to haul it up the mountain so essentially we we’re slack packing to the summit as everyone does. Had to register with a ranger and started hiking with Mark leading. May have been 10 other hikers some finishing their thru hike and other day hikers. Initially trail was easy and we crossed a few bridges of Katahdin stream and some waterfalls. Then the climb became steeper and Mark faded behind and I just hauled ass upwards over huge boulders with a few metal rods to grab onto. Incredible views and went above tree line. I passed several climbers. I felt strong and as I was climbing I became quite emotional teary eyed at times recalling how incredibly difficult my journey which had started on 3/7/21 (over 6 months ago). I felt like Lieutenant Dan in the Forest Gump movie when he is on the shrimp boat in the hurricane standing in the crows nest screaming at God “ is this what you call a storm”. I felt like is this the best mountain you can up with. This is nothing. I was angry with God really myself because I alone had caused all the problems with anxiety and depression and loneliness having to make the heartbreaking decision to get off the trail with Piper go back home and then get back on the trail without Piper. I waited for Barb and we hiked onto The Tableland past Thoreau Sping and we were now in windy cold conditions with fog and limited visibility obviously no views. Layered up with warmer clothing. Relatively gentle long uphill climb for at least another mile. Saw the famous sign at the summit in the mist I had dreamt about for so long and reached it and I was crying. It was bittersweet as I was not done with my journey still having the hundred mile wilderness and other miles in Maine and Virginia maybe 270 in total. Pictures were taken and about 8 other hikers were at the summit some thru hikers who had finished their journey congratulating others and I was envious. This was how I was supposed to complete the AT. It was not to be for myself but I was more determined to do the miles I had skipped and be a true thru hiker all be it a flip floper. Barb and I slowly hiked back down. We never saw Mark as he had turned around due to feeling poorly. We found him in our lean-to lying down inside his sleeping bag.
9/11/21 Well decided to start entering stuff in the log. Left hostel at 6:00 AM. Said goodbye to Barb. She was so helpful in arranging food and reassurance in setting up SOBO thru the hundred mile wilderness. Dropped 3 hikers who were starting SOBO at Katahdin Stream campground. One had just finished the CDT and now wants to complete AT in like one hundred days. Oh to be young again I can only dream. Had to wait to get into the park due to huge line most won’t be able to get in. Baxter has it’s rules. Saw my first hopefully not my last Moose from the shuttle van in a pond sticking her head in eating aquatic vegetation. Hiked with Mark who we met at the hostel. He is 62 yo and completed a NOBO in 2017. He doesn’t have his trail legs and gets short of breath easily when going up hill. I led the way and waited for him. Saw hikers at Katahdin stream I had hiked with previously in Virginia with Piper getting ready to Summit including Wendys. She had called the hostel wanting a Wendy’s hamburger to eat at the summit. Cody from the hostel was going to Bangor and brought her one. What a picture that will be Wendy eating a Wendy’s hamburger at the summit and end of the journey. Hike was easy mostly flat with the usual rocks and tree roots. Went farther than planned to get to the dam at rainbow lake which has a beautiful view of Katahdin. Crisp beautiful weather and camped at the small dam at the end of rainbow lake.13.4 miles and only 1,932 feet elevation gain.
8/28/21 Zero day at Barb’s. Slept in morning. Usual stuff showered and laundry. Michele came up to Barb’s house. Went to dinner with Guy.
8/26/21 Hiked down the rest of Ethan Pond Trail to cross US Route 302 and onto Webster Cliff Trail. I had avoided hiking this before because I heard it was scary(near the edge). It really wasn’t near the edge one couldn’t fall to their death but it was amazingly rugged and steep and for me one of the most difficult trails I have ever hiked. Numerous fabulous views made it more like able. Seemed like a never ending climb to the top of Mount Webster (3,910 ft). It was a 2,700 ft climb. Then on familiar hiking territory hiking to the summits of Mount Jackson(4052 ft). Briefly stopped at Mitzpah hut got a snack and than to Mount Pierce(4,310). Got on Crawford Path headed towards Mount Eisenhower didn’t have the time to take the loop path up it. Past Mount Monroe and again didn’t take the loop to summit it as it was late and zi had a reservation at Lake or the Clouds Hut. Got there about 6:45 PM and got dinner. Wasn’t too crowded heard the naturalist talk about plants in the mountain zone. Wasn’t too good and crashed early. 14.4 miles and 5,326 feet elevation gain.
8/25/21 Hiked from Garfield Ridge Campsite down and across to Galehead hut. Weather Was sunny and quite warm. I had done the same hike with piper last year working on her 48 and it was quite difficult but going this way was much easier. Stopped at the hut to get some snacks and continued on climbing 1,100 feet in 0.8 miles to o amazing South Twin Mountain(4,902 miles) I had hike dthis in the past working on Lolas 48 and this time it was much easier even wearing a full backpack because I’m in much better shape. I’ve noticed that there Weren’t nearly as many hikers doing the Pemi loop as there was in the past there’s still people trying to do the Pammy loop all within 24 hours which I think is crazy and these people that can do it are amazing athletes. From there I was now on the Twinway(AT)And broke through on to tree line. I had never hiked this portion of the Twinway and as usual the views were spectacular looking across the Pemigasett Wildernesses especially towards the Franconia ridge. I didn’t go to the bonds which is what I’ve done in the past this time heading towards Mount Zealand but I didn’t take the spur trail to the peak. I had to stop at Zeacliff with it’s amazing views initially being the only one there.It look like they put a new bog bridges which were desperately needed.Hiked past Zealand Falls onto the Ethan Pond trail(AT) which I had never hiked before and initially the trail was perfect smooth and flat with occasional rocky areas from previous rock slides. The trail then became bog bridges many were rotten. Went by some hikers than were stealth camping which is what I should have done but continued onto Ethan Pond Shelter. It was now dark maybe 9:30 PM. No available campsites that I could see in the dark so again cowboy camped. Total 15 miles hiked with 3,035 feet elevation gained and 4,188 feet descended,
8/24/21 Hiked only 11.4 miles but 5,500 feet of elevation gain. Michele drove me to Plymouth where I met Barb. We drove to the Whitehouse trail parking lot and got on AT (Liberty Spring Trail) climbing to Franconia Ridge Trail then to Little Haystack Mountain(4,729 ft) with great views. My left ankle was hurting hopefully that will go away. Yesterday at home both ankles were hurting maybe because I only had one trekking pole as the other one broke. We climbed to Mount Lincoln (5,089 ft) again with amazing views. It was surprisingly not very crowded. Clouds/ fog rolled in and we continued to Mount Lafayette (5,246 ft). Windy and in the fog. We said our goodbyes as she had to head back to the car. She is a strong hiker and it was fun to hike with someone. I continued on the AT( called Garfield Ridge Trail) in the fog down to the col and back up to Mount Garfield (4,451 ft). Great views from the summit.That trail is difficult with moderate size rocks which were wet and took forever to hike. Finally got to Garfield Ridge Campsite checked in with caretaker paid 10 dollars and set up my tent on a platform that already had 2 tents on it. Campsite was crowded. Of note on the ridge and mountains ravens were close to us trying to get food. I never saw this behavior from Ravens before.
8/19/21 Zero day due to heavy rain and went to Seamstress to have suit altered for Sarah’s wedding. Washed clothes as well as sleeping bag. Dried my tent which was wet from recent rain. Went to Town Docks with Michele and Amy.
8/18/21 Rained overnight but by morning was foggy but not raining. Hiked the short distance to the summit of Smarts Mountain (3,327 ft) which was wooded and didn’t climb the tower as their would be no views due to the fog. Hiked down about 2,000 feet and then upwards on a rather steep slope to Eastman Ledges than to the summit of Mount Cube (2,911) with excellent views. I had hiked this mountain years ago with Roxy and Lola via a different route. Knew the weather forecast for tomorrow was heavy rain made a plan to have Michele pick me up at the end of the day which she kindly agreed to. I needed to try my suit on for Sarah’s wedding in October to see if it still fit and needed to be altered as I have lost weigh. Good time to take care of that.Descending Mount Cube was much easier with a better path.Bad Mosquitoes which were biting. Walked on some bog boards and by a beaver pond. Saw 2 NOBO’s and a few SOBO’s and one local trail runner. That’s it. Light rain briefly came and went and hiked 15.1 miles with 3,132 elevation gain and 1,796 loss. Michele and Hannah picked me up at Route 25C and we went to dinner and then home to sleep in my own bed. Sarah and Max who just moved back to NH had Piper.
8/17/21 Left the campsite late this morning around 10:00 AM because I didn’t get to bed last night until midnight. Weather today was cloudy with temps probably in the mid 70s and a light rain in the late afternoon. Saw four NOBO’s who I have met before and 4 SOBO’s and a few day hikers. Only hiked 12.1 miles but climbed 4024 feet and descended 2,886 feet.Initially reached the North Peak of Moose Mountain (2,297 ft) which had no view. Then descended do goose Pond Road at 958 feet and then climbed to Holt’s Ledge (1,968 ft) with amazing views. After the AT turned followed the trail by the ledge which was fenced off to protect Peregrine Falcon nesting sites. Could see Smart’s Mountain in the far distance which I climbed at the end of the day. Descended down to 880 feet and a paved road in Lyme, New Hampshire. Then began the long hike up to Smart’s Mountain(3,237 ft) with views from Lambert Ridge. From there it look like the peak was at least 10 miles away but in fact it was only a few miles. Transitioned to the boreal forest zone which I love. Saw my favorite amphibian the terrestrial red eft which after a few years on land returns to the water as an eastern newt. Saw reindeer lichen and my favorite annual forest plant the bunchberry now having the red berries which are edible but have no taste and have a “pit”. All of the American beach trees are infected with the invasive beech bark disease which I think will eventually kill them all. It’s so sad to see this. I don’t think there’s any way to stop it. I suspect most hikers aren’t even aware of this. I had actually hiked Smarts Mountain years ago with Roxy and Lola not on the AT and recall a dead moose lying right on the trail almost at the summit. It was so strange why it died there. This was a loop hike I did when I started hiking again in a book that had hiked with dogs in NH and Vermont. Initially I started with easy hikes as I thought there was no way I could ever do the 4,000 footers. Actually Smarts Mountain hike is harder than some of the 4,000 footers. Well I eventually did all 48 four thousand footers several times with both Lola and Piper and many with Roxy. Never thought I could do them in the winter but did the NH chapter AMC winter hiking series which a great course and have done many in the winter. Hiking in the Whites I was often on the AT and saw thru hikers and was always so much in awe of what they were doing and now I’m getting closer to completing my goal. This has been the hardest thing I’ve ever attempted. My hiking skills and confidence has steadily grown over the years and certainly my fitness has improved since I started my thru hike over 5 months ago which is hard to believe. Got to the Smarts tenting area and it was just getting dark. Foggy no one else here and I am only 0.1 miles from the summit and fire tower.
Explore the full hike map
You need to be logged in to do this.
