Being right on trail is nice but the town is split in two. The east side has hotels, Walmart, grocery, etc but is all chain stores. The west is the downtown area that has great restaurants and bars and the Penitentiary tour was pretty cool if you're 0'ing.
You can camp for free at the fairgrounds. The Hole in the Wall Bar was my favorite on trail. Cheapest drinks I've seen in my life + the bartender plays tons of various dice games where you win free drinks!