2022 Appalachian Trail Thru-hike

12
May
2022

May 12, 2022

Wow I haven't written anything in a long time. I've been out here taking it day by day. We made it to the NOC and had a huge breakfast. We got some more gear upgrades at the outfitter. We spent a lot of the day getting to know our new friends who may become our tramily. We had dinner with them before we hiked out a couple miles to the campsite with the big boulder that was teeming with poison ivy. We managed to avoid it! We stayed at Wolf Creek Hostel, which was a very kind man's childhood home. I was over the moon when he led us to our room for the night and found that there was a piano there. I got to play for awhile during our stay there and I was delighted. We also had our own bathroom and we were able to do laundry. The gas station nearby allowed us to get enough snacks to keep moving on trail to Fontana so we didn't have to find a ride to town. They had dippin dots and I ate four of them immediately in different flavors. The next morning, I got us a pound of bacon from the gas station and cooked it up. It was so good. The next stop was Fontana Dam. We went down to the marina to resupply and see about the free canoe rental. When I walked in the door, our friends were there! We had caught up to them and they were renting a pontoon. So, we got to go on a pontoon ride around Fontana Dam with the mountains in the background. Love bug, the mayor, samwise and I all jumped into the low 60s water and swam around for a bit. We camped near the Fontana Hilton shelter that night before heading into the smokies. It was lovely getting to shower for once. The next day, the smokies began. We put our permits in the box and started climbing. It rained a little off and on, but was mostly sunny. We caught up with the crew again, who started earlier in the morning. We all camped at the only campsite in the smokies without a shelter. There were cables for our food. We all sat around eating dinner and playing word games. The next day was sunny and beautiful and we did 12 miles. However, the next several days turned miserable and quick. It rained nonstop for days. We were constantly in a cloud and couldn't see any views. Nothing would dry. We would take our wet clothes and shoes off at night and they would freeze in the very low temperatures. So we would have to force ourselves into them in the morning. We also had to sleep on hard floor boards in the shelters in order to stay warm and dry. At one point, my pack cover didn't seal completely and I ended up dragging it behind me for about 2 miles in the rain, and my pack got soaked too. The conditions were not ideal. Because of the rain, it became very muddy and slippery on the trail. Parts of the trail were like rivers we were walking through. My feet were in so much pain from walking on them for hours while they were pruney. We were so glad when it finally stopped raining on the day we climbed to Clingman's Dome. We woke up that morning, peeled on our frozen soaked clothes again, and headed up the mountain. I played Hamilton on my phone to get us hyped, and we were to the top before we knew it. We finally got to see the notorious smoky views. Clingman's Dome was a very cool lookout. It was definitely a lot less scary than the fire towers I've climbed! We were able to hitch a ride to Gatlinburg with a couple of older sisters, who were there trying to get some pictures of flowers. They were disappointed that there weren't really any, but we got to stop at a bunch of waterfalls on the way down to get pictures of those. Our companion for the day, Paladin, kept getting out to take Trish's pictures for her and they looked like they were having a great time. At the bottom of the mountain, we stopped to have a picnic. They fed us sandwiches and chips, and we all sat around talking about life on the trail. When they dropped us off at the quality inn, they gave us all hugs even though we reeked and were filthy and damp. We really enjoyed Gatlinburg and having some hot meals there. There is a family of bears that lives there and eats trash. We were able to observe and watch them for a couple days. It's shocking that the hotel doesn't get proper bear trash cans. They wouldn't have this issue, but it was nice to get to watch the bears interact with each other. It's kind of sad to see them not in their natural environment. It seems wrong somehow. There is a mother and three cubs. We named them Honey with the two boys Rock n Roll. And then ladybug, the little girl cub who just wants to forage and climb trees. We got to watch the boys wrestle for about an hour while we stood on the bridge behind the hotel. Our friend Gabi came to visit from indy and we got to spend some time with her. She dropped us off at Damascus so we won't miss trail days. We'll be able to shuttle back to standing bear hostel with the tramily when the festival is over. We spent the night on the trail just barely up the stairs heading northbound. We're going to secure our spots in tent city today and the festival will start tomorrow! It's supposed to rain this weekend, but I really hope it doesn't. I've had enough of the rain and would like to enjoy Trail Days!

10
Apr
2022

April 9, 2022

We woke up warm and cozy in our hotel room while it was snowing outside. We got everything packed up and checked out. Back into the cold we went! We had to walk down to Walgreens for some foot care items and on the way, a sweet woman called out to us from a Burger King parking lot and asked if we needed a ride. We said, actually, yes we do! She explained that her trail name was Stargazer, but her real name was Susan and her friend behind the wheel was Brenda. Susan told us all about her experiences with the AT and the John Muir Trail out west. They were so kind and took us all the way back to Neel's Gap for free. After the shuttle driver way over charged us the day before with his tiny Ford ranger we barely fit into, it was a welcome surprise. We got pictures with the lovely ladies before hitting the trail again. I had bought some zero drop shoes the day before at the outfitter, since I've realized my shoes are too small and that's the reason I keep getting such bad blisters. However, wearing them one night around the town was already causing problems for my shins and Achilles, so I returned them right away. I will try to get the correct size of the shoes I have once I come upon another town or I'll have them shipped there. Switching back to my normal shoes made the pain go away after hiking another mile or so. It was very cold, windy, and snowy for a lot of the day. We made it about 6 miles up the trail and took the extra mile detour down the side of the mountain to the Whitley Gap shelter that had more wind protection and bear hang cables. It is never fun to go that far off trail because it adds more miles, but it was worth it this time. With the extra warm gear I got at Neel's Gap, I was able to stay warm at night even when it got down to about 27°. We had to sleep with our water filters in our sleeping bags so that they wouldn't freeze. Somebody made a fire at dinner time so it was nice to sit and eat around that before crawling into bed. Two of the campers had dogs, a husky and a black German shepherd just like my Sander boy back home. It was fun playing fetch with him and watching the two of them play.

9
Apr
2022

April 5, 2022

On the fourth day out here, we experienced very cold rain that downpour nearly all day. About 30 of us creamed into a tiny lean-to style shelter, and the rain fell sideways, still managing to soak a lot of us inside. One gentleman with diabetes had a very scary moment, but our little community contributed sugar and blankets to warm him up and he ended up okay. None of us felt like we could get warm and everything managed to get wet. Setting up our rain fly in the downpour was an interesting experience! Before getting to the shelter, Riley and I decided to hike the 5 miles there without eating a single bite of food and we were low on water because we stealth camped the previous night. When we finally arrived, I was so cold and exhausted that I could barely open a granola bar with my hands shaking. I decided it would be a brilliant idea to cook my soup on the picnic table in the shelter, where other people were doing the same. When my beans weren't fully cooked from the boiling water, I naively turned my jet boil back on and it almost instantly began to boil over. In my haste to turn off the flame, I broke off the ignitor and I couldn't twist it off and had to blow it out. A gentleman across from me helped and quickly twisted off the fuel canister so that it wasn't leaking. Luckily he was also an engineer and was able to fix my ignitor. So, now I have my trail name : Sparky, because I'm a fire hazard. The soup was everywhere and made a huge mess to clean up that resembled vomit. I cleaned it all up as best I could with the wet wipes that were available and left the soupy mess in my stove to clean up later after the rain. With it in the bear box, I didn't have the ability to cook dinner later, but somebody let me boil water with their stove so that I was able to get extra calories to stay warm for the night. The hiking community is truly humanity at its best, lending helping hands where needed because we're all in this together. I also learned that the bear box lids will fall on your head if you don't hold onto them. Around 4:30 pm, the rain finally let up and those of us who stayed at camp had some respite. Many others left for town, particularly those whose gear was soaked and ran a real risk of hypothermia. A fog settled in that looked like something straight out of a Stephen King novel. It ended up only sprinkling throughout the night and I was surprisingly the warmest I've been yet.

30
Mar
2022

March 30, 2022

Well I leave tomorrow. It's starting to feel real. All of my stuff is packed away in my car and I'm finalizing all my gear. (linked here if you're curious what all I'm taking with me to walk from Georgia to Maine : https://lighterpack.com/r/q5nkf7). It's a strange feeling to finally be so close to the start of this trip after talking about doing this big thing for years. It's always felt like this far-off hypothetical thing, but here we are. On Saturday, I'll be spending my first night of many out in the woods. I won't be sleeping in the same place twice for months. I spent a good chunk of time yesterday researching and adjusting settings on my Garmin instinct watch that my boyfriend got me for Christmas. It's nice to know that I'll be able to know barometric pressure changes to alert me to storms before they happen, even without phone service. I have a compass on my watch as well as other helpful functions. It's interesting to think how the main stressors and daily obstacles I'll face will be so different from what they have been all my life. The weather, my joints, the next water or food source, and finding good strong trees with no loose limbs will be front and center in my mind. For the time being, no more alarms. No more traffic, no more rushing around to do xyz for so-and-so or such-and-such. Just one foot in front of the next. If I'm lucky, I'll find myself on top of Mt. Katadyn in a few months. No part of me is ready to say goodbye to my cats or people I love for this long. That will be 100% the hardest part of this. However, it's amazing to know that I have so much support in this endeavor and lots of people cheering me on. Time to go embrace the suck!

23
Mar
2022

March 23, 2022

I leave in just over a week and can't believe it's coming up so soon! As part of my preparation, I decided to chop off my goldilocks for the first time since I was 9 years old. The last time I had my hair cut short was at a cancer survivor rally at our local fairgrounds that my mom and I happened to stumble upon. I remember her pure joy and pride to adorn her sash and walk with the other survivors knowing that she'd triumphed over her arch nemesis. I was happy to run around with my best friend and eat candy, without a care in the world. Little did I know that about six months later, we would receive official news that my mom had another, more aggressive brain tumor that would this time conquer. I would lose her less than a year from that very day. My mom always wore wigs, ever since radiation claimed her hair long before I was born. I used to run around as a toddler wearing them, singing and dancing in an attempt to be just like her. That day at the rally, there was a booth offering free hair cuts that would be donated to locks of love to make wigs. I was so excited to contribute my long hair to other people who'd lost theirs just like my mom. When I got my hair cut at that rally, I didn't intend for it to be cut as short as it was, but it was necessary at the time. This was due to the fact that my hair tangles very easily and I would scream and fight my mom any time she'd try to brush it out. Over time, she began just giving it a quick once-over on top, leaving the bottom to become a mass of matted knots. It had gotten so bad that three women could not untangle it, despite their best efforts. The only logical solution was to just cut it all off and give me a bob job. They joked with me and said, "I bet you've never had so many people working on your hair at one time, you must feel like a celebrity." I sure did. I was over the moon with my new hair cut. I constantly ran my fingers through the ends, trying to get used to the empty space that my long locks used to take up. I showed it off gleefully to my dad when he got home from a long day of truck driving. He was always quick to take pictures and videos of important moments in our lives, no matter how tired he might've been. I distinctly remember him rushing to get the camera, as I posed beside my mom and our shih tzu puppy Pepsi, who went on to live 17 long years. My dad beamed behind the camera and talked about his glowing girls, my mom in her survivor sash and me in my leopard face paint and new short hair. For a long time, that picture lived on a section of wall in my room that I turned into a giant collage of all my friends, family, and important moments in my life. As an angsty teen years later, I remember taking the thumb tack out of the wall that held the picture, staring at my mom beaming with pride over beating cancer. I tore it up, angry at the world for its cruel irony. I'm not sure if there's another copy anywhere or if it's now lost to time, tucked away just in my memory. Growing up in the church, I was always fascinated with the story of Samson and Delilah. I think part of me has always felt like I too held my strength in my hair and that if I cut it off, I would lose some of my power. For years now, I've worn my hair as a blanket, hiding my insecurities and keeping me whole. Finally, I am ready to let go. To let go of my hair, and with it - the concept that I have any control over the future and what it will bring. I am about to spend many days and nights in the wilderness, embracing my own wild soul. I know that hiking the AT will in many ways be the hardest task I've ever taken on, next to coping with the loss of the woman who brought me life. This time, I get to choose my hard. This time, I won't let the matts form and tangle themselves on my neck or my perspective. This time, I will embrace the turbulent unknown. The space beneath the ends of my hair still feels weird, but I am not Samson. I know my power is within me. It's not a tangible thing that can be stolen. Wearing my mom's wigs as a toddler didn't make me like her. I already was. She is part of me and always will be, and that is part of my strength and my journey. I cut off a piece of me, but I am still whole. Look out AT, here I come.

About This Hike

Appalachian Trail
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Longest Day— mi
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