13 miles

We decided to wake up at 5:15 in the morning to make it to Clingman’s Dome for sunrise since we didn’t get to get the sunset the night before. Clingman’s Dome is the highest point on the AT at 6600 feet so should make for a nice view. We hiked in pitch darkness for almost an hour before reaching it and the weather was atrocious. Foggy as all hell so couldn’t see a damn thing and it was freezing cold and windy. Only rain could’ve made it worse.

We stopped for a brief second to say we did and continued on in disappointment. The goal for the day was supposed to be a shelter I think 18 miles out from where we camped but we had run into a gentlemen by the name of Early Bird that was our day hiking with his wife. Early Bird is a banker from a nearby town and an avid hiker. Loved in the area his whole life so he’s got the accent to match. He was telling us how he had done trail magic the day before at Newfound Gap and about how he fed 60+ hikers with cheeseburgers and beer. He gave me some water and we went our separate ways.

We get into the gap at around 10:30 praying that somebody would be there cooking cheeseburgers or really anything at all. In this huge parking lot flooded with tourists, there wasn’t a bit of trail magic. 2nd disappointment of the day. Someone had the good idea of trying to ring the nearest pizza joint and seeing if we could get some pizzas delivered. We put Two Tone on the job because she’s got an English accent so is by default more charming for these southern folk. We wait on hold for 10 minutes as they are extremely busy, finally someone answers and we explain the situation and what do you know they agree. Two Tone says “okay we’ll need 7 large pizzas!” The guy fumbled around with his words and the suddenly “realized” we are outside of the delivery area and reneges the offer. Disappointment number 3.

I said screw it, I’m gonna make my own magic and go into town myself and have a beer and hot food regardless. I’ll still come back out and do another 10 miles to the designated camp spot.

As soon as I pack up my things Early Bird walks over from across the parking lot and asks if we had any luck. I said no, but are you going into town? Luckily he is and I asked if I could go in with him. He’s such a nice guy. A couple of us go in, get a place to stay, eat food and were merry. The trail provides

23 miles

Early Bird had messaged us the night before and offered to take us to breakfast and back to the trail before he goes to work. This guy really is the best. Of course we take him up on his offer and meet him promptly at a local diner at 7 am. Had a big breakfast, coffee, and a good time and he drops us off at the trail around a quarter till 9 am.

We’ve got to do 23 miles today to make up for the missed miles the day before and catch up to our crew. Luckily it was a beautiful day. The hiking was absolutely gorgeous with views as far as you could see as we hiked the ridge line looking into these green valleys and mossy green forests.

11 miles

Had my town step on this morning. Only 11 miles to get into Standing Bear and officially out of the Smoky Mountains. I set off around 7:30, walked the first 2 miles until I reached the top of Mt. Crammerer or whatever it was called. At the top a guy trail running passed me and I wanted to see if I could do it too. The conditions were perfect, my pack is at its lightest with less than one day of food, it was cool and dry, and it was all downhill for the next 5 miles into Davenport Gap. So I put in my headphones and took off.

I was surprised as to how easy it was for me. I wasn’t really breathing too hard and I was going kind of quick. My calves, hamstrings, and ankles were definitely feeling it after though but it was a nice challenge.

I arrived at Standing Bear Farm around 10 am in the pouring rain. Standing Bear Farm reminds me of like a lost boys camp or Neverland from the movie Hook. Random buildings and architecture that house bunks and private rooms for hikers. You are given a clipboard when you arrive with you name on it so that you can keep track of your own expenses and pay at the end. My first order of business is to buy a 12 pack, have some, pass some out, and save a few for my friends coming in behind me. We enjoy home cooked meals and card games and beer late into the night. All is well in the hiker world