Written Monday, 31 May 2021

Well, my record of poor site selection continues. Turns out I cowboy camped right next to a spot that some previous camper had used as a toilet. I have no idea why I didn't notice the stench last night, but by 0300, it was overpowering, and I just got up, packed, and headed out.

Getting through this pack camp site without stepping on someone or tripping over tent stakes and guy lines was like running an obstacle course. This is the third night in a row (not counting Ridgecrest) that the camp site I'm staying at has been way over max capacity. It reminds me of the beginning of the Appalachian Trail in 2017.

Baewatch, Maverick, Dunk (the Canadian nurse) and Dale (a hiker about my age) out ahead of me, and I can see their headlamps on the climb above me.

The morning climb is about 2,000 feet over approximately 6 miles so it's not exactly easy, but it's not the toughest one we've had, either. I make the top of the climb at just around daybreak and have gorgeous views on the way down.

I meet up with Baewatch and Maverick at our first water source of the day, about 0900, 12 miles after we started. Everyone is feeling good, as we know our next climb our last big climb in the desert section of the PCT.

And that climb delivers the perfect farewell. Not only has the day heated up, the climb itself is steeper than the early morning climb. Man, what a grind! I'm sweating profusely, and my tongue is hanging out. Oof.

Only through the power of prayer, exhortations, and swear words am I able to haul my tired carcass up to the top of this sun-blasred hill.

As usual, though, the PCT rewards you for effort, and, as we turn one last corner, we don't see a higher hill to climb. Instead, we are presented with a panoramic view of the southern Sierra Nevada range--a truly breathtaking sight that, I must confess, brings tears to my eyes

Baewatch has beaten me to the top, and we sit down to have lunch, both completely gobsmacked by the view. The pictures above will not, I'm afraid, convey the full beauty of the Sierra. Another time I wish I were a better photographer...

At the top, stunning view of the high Sierra ahead. Baewatch and I eat lunch, gazing at the scene.

Descent is a big disappointment. Hot, dusty, dry, boring (no views)

Finally get to water. Ants everywhere! 24.5 miles

Decide to press to south fork of Kern River, where swimming supposedly exists. Otters love water!

Easy walk. The water is fine. Surprisingly not as cold or running as swiftly as one might expect. For me, this marks the end of the desert.

Was going to camp there, but when the 10th person shows up (with more behind, certainly), I quietly repack, excuse myself, and hike another mile to a solo campsite overlooking Pine Creek.

Into Kennedy Meadows tomorrow...the official end of the desert section.

Miles Hiked Today: 30.3 Total Miles Hiked: 699.0

Sea Otter Fact of the Day: Sea otters have very dexterous front paws, with which they retrieve and manipulate their prey